Beginner · An afternoon, plus finishing · Last reviewed
Bookshelf plans with a cut list for any size
A plain bookcase built from 1x boards (or plywood strips when it is deeper than a 1x12), with fixed shelves screwed between the sides. Change any dimension and the cut list, the boards to buy, the drawing and the steps follow.
Drawing
6 parts · 9 pieces- Outside
- 30" W × 72" H × 11 1/2" D
- Each opening
- 16 5/16"
- Shelf span
- 28 1/2"
Bookshelf: 9 pieces. Buy 4 × 1x12, 1 × 1x4, 1 × 1/4" plywood or hardboard.
Parts
Cut list
| Part | Name | Qty | Length | Width | Thick | Cut from | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Side | 2 | 72" | 11 1/4" | 3/4" | 1x12 (3/4" × 11 1/4" actual) | |
| B | Top | 1 | 28 1/2" | 11 1/4" | 3/4" | 1x12 (3/4" × 11 1/4" actual) | |
| C | Bottom shelf | 1 | 28 1/2" | 11 1/4" | 3/4" | 1x12 (3/4" × 11 1/4" actual) | |
| D | Shelf | 3 | 28 1/2" | 11 1/4" | 3/4" | 1x12 (3/4" × 11 1/4" actual) | |
| E | Toe kick | 1 | 28 1/2" | 3" | 3/4" | 1x4 (3/4" × 3 1/2" actual) | rip to 3" |
| F | Back panel | 1 | 72" | 30" | 1/4" | 1/4" plywood or hardboard |
Shopping list
4 ×
1x12 (3/4" × 11 1/4" actual), 8 ft
Parts A, B, C, D · 75% used · lower bound 3
1 ×
1/4" plywood or hardboard, 4 × 8 ft sheet
Parts F · 47% of the sheet area used
Board feet bought: 34.7 BF nominal (17.2 BF in the finished parts, actual size). Every list allows a 1/8" saw kerf per cut and assumes defect-free stock; tally board feet or price the boards to compare lengths.
Hardware and tools
| Qty | Item and use |
|---|---|
| 34 | #8 × 2" wood screws Sides into the ends of top, bottom, shelves and kick: 3 per joint |
| 53 | 1" brad nails or #6 × 5/8" screws Back panel, about every 6" |
| 1 bottle | Wood glue Every butt joint |
| 1 | Furniture anti-tip strap Anchors the top to a wall stud |
Tools
- Circular saw or miter saw
- Drill/driver
- Countersink bit
- Square
- Tape measure
- Clamps
Build steps
- Cut every part to the lengths in the cut list. The boards are used at their full width. Cut the two sides together, clamped, so they come out the same length.
- Lay the sides face to face with the ends flush and mark the shelf lines across both at once. The underside of the bottom shelf is 3" from the floor; the shelves' undersides are at 20 1/16", 37 1/8", 54 3/16"; the top sits flush with the top of the sides. Each opening is 16 5/16" tall.
- Drill and countersink three pilot holes through the sides on each line, 1" in from the front and back edges and one in the middle.
- Glue and screw the top and the bottom shelf between the sides. Check the case is square by measuring both diagonals; they should match.
- Fit the 3 shelves on their lines with glue and three screws per end.
- Fit the toe kick between the sides under the bottom shelf, flush with the front edges, with glue and two screws per side.
- Lay the case face down, square it (equal diagonals), then nail or screw the back on every 6", including along each shelf.
- Fill the screw holes, sand and finish. Stand it in place and fix the anti-tip strap to a wall stud.
How this bookshelf is built
The sides run the full height. The top, the bottom shelf and every fixed shelf fit between the sides, so all of them are the same length: the outside width minus two board thicknesses. That makes the cut list short and means one stop block on the saw cuts every horizontal part.
Each joint is a butt joint: glue plus three screws driven through the side into the end of the shelf. Screws into end grain hold less than screws into face grain, which is why there are three per joint and why the back panel matters. A back nailed to every shelf stops the case racking, and does more for its strength than any other part.
The toe kick lifts the bottom shelf off the floor so it clears baseboard and carpet, and stiffens the bottom of the case.
Nominal and actual lumber sizes
Lumber is sold by its nominal size and is smaller than its name. A 1x12 pine board is 3/4" thick and 11 1/4" wide; a 1x10 is 9 1/4" wide; a 1x8 is 7 1/4". The plan uses the actual sizes throughout, and names the nominal board to ask for in the shopping list.
Widths do vary a little between mills and moisture contents. Measure one of your boards before cutting the shelves, and if it is not 3/4" thick, type the real thickness into the board thickness field: every shelf length depends on it.
Where the plan stops being reliable
The shelf-span warning uses the common rule that 3/4" pine or plywood shelves longer than about 32" sag visibly under books. It is a rule of thumb; a heavier load, a thinner board or a softer species sags more.
Screw counts and nail spacing are typical, not structural calculations. Anything taller than about 30" can tip forward when a child climbs it or a drawer-full of books sits at the top: fix it to a wall stud with an anti-tip strap, whatever the plan says.
The shopping list assumes clear boards. Knots, twist and cupping are the usual reasons a real trip needs one more board than the optimizer says.
Safety
Wear eye and hearing protection, keep guards on saws, and support long boards and full sheets on both sides of the cut. Pre-drill near board ends so screws do not split the wood. The plan is a woodworking guide, not an engineered design: it has no load ratings, and it does not replace the instructions that come with your tools and fasteners.
About this plan
Designed for LCuts from standard practice for this kind of build; the dimensions, cut list and steps are computed from your inputs by code you can check on the methods page. The shopping list runs every part through the cut list optimizer (boards) and the sheet cut optimizer (plywood), with the same heuristics and lower bounds. Last reviewed September 30, 2026.
Common questions
How far apart should bookshelf shelves be?
For paperbacks about 9-10 inches of clear space is enough; most hardcovers need 11-12 inches, and large art books 14 or more. The plan spaces fixed shelves evenly and prints the clear height of each opening, so change the shelf count until the opening suits your books.
What is the best depth for a bookshelf?
Most books are under 9 inches deep, so a 1x10 (9 1/4 inches actual) or 1x12 (11 1/4 inches) case suits nearly everything. Deeper than 11 1/4 inches needs plywood, and the plan switches to plywood strips automatically.
How long can a shelf be before it sags?
A common rule is about 32 inches for 3/4-inch pine or plywood loaded with books. Beyond that, add a vertical divider in the middle, or glue a 1x2 strip under the front edge to stiffen it.
Do I need a back on the bookshelf?
It is strongly recommended. A thin back nailed to every shelf keeps the case square and stops it racking side to side. Without one, screw the case to the wall.
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