Beginner · 2 hours for the pair · Last reviewed
Sawhorse plans: a pair from 2x4s
Sturdy 2x4 sawhorses with a T-shaped top beam and legs splayed outward for stability. Every leg is cut at the same angle at both ends; set the height, beam length and splay and the plan works out the leg length, the braces and the lumber for one or two horses.
Drawing
5 parts · 18 pieces- Leg length
- 29 1/2" at 15°
- Footprint
- 19 7/8" × 36"
- Height
- 30"
Sawhorse pair: 18 pieces. Buy 6 × 2x4.
Parts
Cut list
| Part | Name | Qty | Length | Width | Thick | Cut from | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Cap | 2 | 36" | 3 1/2" | 1 1/2" | 2x4 (1 1/2" × 3 1/2" actual) | |
| B | Beam | 2 | 36" | 3 1/2" | 1 1/2" | 2x4 (1 1/2" × 3 1/2" actual) | |
| C | Leg | 8 | 29 1/2" | 3 1/2" | 1 1/2" | 2x4 (1 1/2" × 3 1/2" actual) | 15° off square, both ends parallel |
| D | End brace | 4 | 15 5/16" | 3 1/2" | 1 1/2" | 2x4 (1 1/2" × 3 1/2" actual) | ends 15°, short edge 13 7/16" |
| E | Stretcher | 2 | 29" | 3 1/2" | 1 1/2" | 2x4 (1 1/2" × 3 1/2" actual) |
Shopping list
6 ×
2x4 (1 1/2" × 3 1/2" actual), 8 ft
Parts A, B, C, D, E · 87% used · fewest possible
Board feet bought: 32 BF nominal (18.2 BF in the finished parts, actual size). Every list allows a 1/8" saw kerf per cut and assumes defect-free stock; tally board feet or price the boards to compare lengths.
Hardware and tools
| Qty | Item and use |
|---|---|
| 60 | #9 × 3" construction screws Cap to beam every 8", 3 per leg, 2 per brace joint, 2 per stretcher end |
| 1 bottle | Wood glue (optional) Leg-to-beam joints |
Tools
- Miter saw or circular saw with a speed square
- Drill/driver
- Tape measure
- Clamps
Build steps
- Set the saw to 15°. Cut 8 legs at 29 1/2" measured along an edge, with both ends cut at 15° and parallel (flip the board between cuts, do not rotate it end for end). Cut two caps and two beams at 36".
- Screw each cap flat on top of its beam, centred, every 8" with 3" screws.
- Turn the beam upside down. Place a leg against each side of the beam at each end, flush with the end, with its angled top tight under the cap and splayed outward. Fix each leg with three 3" screws into the beam, pre-drilled so the leg does not split.
- Stand the horse up on a flat floor. Hold an end brace across the inside faces of each pair of legs with its bottom edge 8 1/2" above the floor, mark it where it meets the outside of the legs, cut both ends at 15°, and screw it on. It should measure about 15 5/16" along its bottom edge.
- Lay the stretcher flat on top of the two braces and screw down through it into each brace.
- Build the second horse the same way; cut its braces to fit, since small differences in the legs add up.
How these sawhorses are built
The top is a T: a 2x4 on edge (the beam) carries the load, and a 2x4 laid flat on it (the cap) gives a wide surface to work on and to cut into. The legs are screwed to the sides of the beam and splay outward in one direction only, so every leg cut is the same simple angle, not a compound miter.
The end brace ties each pair of legs together and stops them spreading; the stretcher along the bottom stops the horse racking lengthways.
The leg geometry
With the legs splayed at angle a from vertical, a leg that has to rise r (the height minus the cap) is r ÷ cos a long along its edge, with both ends cut a off square. At 15° that is about 3.5% longer than the rise. The footprint is the distance across the outside of the feet: wider is steadier, but the legs stick out further to trip on.
A sawhorse around 30" suits cutting sheet goods and supporting work at a comfortable height for most people; 24" is common for crosscutting boards with one knee on the stock.
Where the plan stops being reliable
There is no load rating. Screwed 2x4 horses like these routinely carry sheet goods and lumber, but do not stand on them: that is a job for a ladder or a work platform.
The brace length is computed from ideal geometry. Real 2x4s vary slightly, so mark each brace from the legs rather than trusting the number to the 1/16".
Safety
Wear eye and hearing protection, keep guards on saws, and support long boards and full sheets on both sides of the cut. Pre-drill near board ends so screws do not split the wood. The plan is a woodworking guide, not an engineered design: it has no load ratings, and it does not replace the instructions that come with your tools and fasteners.
About this plan
Designed for LCuts from standard practice for this kind of build; the dimensions, cut list and steps are computed from your inputs by code you can check on the methods page. The shopping list runs every part through the cut list optimizer (boards) and the sheet cut optimizer (plywood), with the same heuristics and lower bounds. Last reviewed September 30, 2026.
Common questions
How tall should a sawhorse be?
About 24 to 32 inches. Around 30 inches is comfortable for cutting sheet goods with a circular saw; lower suits crosscutting boards by hand with a knee on the work.
What angle are sawhorse legs cut at?
Commonly 10 to 15 degrees from vertical in the end view. This design splays the legs in one direction only, so both ends of every leg are one simple cut at that angle, parallel to each other.
How many 2x4s do I need for two sawhorses?
The shopping list above runs the parts through the cut-list optimizer; for the default pair of 30-inch horses it prints the number of 8-foot 2x4s, with saw kerf included.
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